Firstly, the day began with disappointment; over breakfast we got a call from the boat tours people to say that they had sadly had to cancel tonightâs birdwatching trip due to high winds. We then made the mistake of trying to take the big road to Dorchester and ending up getting stuck in traffic. Still, it did not spoil our day too much…
1. Emma found me a very nice alternative route to avoid sometimes stationary traffic, taking narrow and winding roads up and down the Wessex Downs. Very pretty, vey charming until at last we reached Chesil Beach. So Chesil Beach â up on Chesil Beach we discover that it is big, it is beautiful, but it is also one huge bank of shingle. With winds straight off the sea, and lowering, threatening clouds, it possibly wasnât the best day to appreciate it.
2. After a picnic lunch, we drove back along the coast and then inland to the church of St Nicholas in the village of Moreton. Delightfully small, it was a small, squat, church. From the very moment you enter you are struck by how light it is in there, compared to normal churches, and presumably also this one in the days before the stained glass windows were destroyed in the war. So all fifteen windows have been recreated by Laurence Whister as clear class etched beautifully with a mixture of village scenes, religious imagery and wartime rememberences. Sometimes they are etched to both sides which give a remarkable depth to the designs. They are breathtakingly lovely.
3. Leaving Moreton and heading back to the coast we go on the worldâs smallest stretch of dual carriageway ever. Fantastic!
4. Lulworth Cove. Our intention was to walk to Durdle Door, but by the time we walked to the top of the cliffs from the car park, the weather seemed to be on the turn, so we settled ourselves to taking the (bracing) air and looking at the geological formations from above. It was a good job too because boy did it start raining when we went down to the cove itself…
5. …and it continued to rain, and the cloud sunk lower. And Emma decided to take me the âscenicâ route back to Swanage via a rifle range with the red flags flying. Em said it was fine because the gates were open and there were no soldiers in sight but when you go round a bend in a twisting turning road to see six tanks stationed in the field next to the road (even if they were rusting wrecks), then youâve got to worry. We survived though, and in due course made it to Swanage; too late to find Grannieâs plaque on the pier but in time for fish and chips on the quay. Gorgeous! 🙂